I spent five days in Upper Egypt, traveling by train. While the Pyramid in Lower Egypt are the masterpieces of the Old Kingdom (and the tomb of Pharaoh of the 4th Dynasty), the Upper Egypt is more related to the New Kingdom (Ramses and Co)
I did mostly the “tourist” sites with guides: in Aswan, Adel showed me how an obelisk was built, the dam and its consequences to the Valley (creation of the Nasser Lake), and the beautiful Philae temple. Then, we sailed together until the botanic garden, and went into a Nubian house.
I continued my journey with the temple of Horus in Edfu.
Then I stayed 2 days in Luxor with Hamid, a French speaking guide met via CS. As probably most cities in the Nile, Luxor city is developed on the east green side representing the life, and the west more desert side of the Nile represents the afterlife, thus the tombs and funeral temples. The first day, I stayed in the East Bank visiting the Karnak and Luxor temple as well as the Luxor museum.
In many places, I got frustrated by the “no photo”: the guides take it seriously: I shot 2/3 pictures without flash (yes, prime lens with f/1.8 aperture are great for that!) inside the Great Temple of Abu Simbel, the guide saw me and I had to remove these pictures. A second time in a tomb in the Valley of the Kings, I was just writing some notes in my cell phone and the guides checked it for pictures! But in a tomb of a Noble, I asked the guard who let me shot some picture without flash, hoping some baksheesh, what I refused to give.
Edit: I already said how empty the tourist places are. As explained on an article in FAZ (Alles tot auf dem Nil), the cruise on the Nile dropped down by 75%!