Wild coast

Long stretches of empty beaches, big cliffs, many rivers coming down, that’s the wild coast! The Transkei -over the Kei river- is a small piece of paradise! The most interesting part is the Xhosa people: the all land belongs to their communities and within a community, one can get more land for his children. There is no real private property: when a land plot is not occupied over some years, it goes back to the community. Xhosa live in Ronda, a small rounded house which is first for the kitchen and living room: a place to sit around. These house are about the same size as the Mongolian gers and arranged quite in the same way. But are solid houses. And these houses are very spread out the valleys, so no concentrated areas, no townships, and no wealthy people ghetto.

Xhosa village

Xhosa village

Coffee Bay is the most famous place there, but the more local and quiet Lubanzi and Bulugunla are nicer places to stay! The Hole in the Wall is an impressive geologic feature: the sea concentrate in big waves in that hole within a big rock.

Swimming there is challenging and maybe not the best idea: wanted to kind of surf these waves, but it’s is more like being in a huge washing machine I guess! And the aspiration stream back to that hole scared me quite a bit!
The area is wonderful to cycle but quite hilly. My weak brakes make the adventure a bit dangerous! Some river crossing are also challenging. But the smiling people along the way make it worth!

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